Root River Golden

Submitted by Paul "PH" Haluska

Hook: TMC 200R, size 6-12
Thread: White or yellow, 6/0- 8/0
Weight: Lead wire (.025), tied along shank
Tail: Stripped Black Hen Neck Quills
Abdomen: Tag of Black Flat Nylon and Latex Strip colored yellow
Wing Case: Latex strip colored yellow with black markings
Thorax: Yellow dubbing (I use a 50:50 mix of Light Yellow Antron and ICE Dub UV Yellow
Legs: Butts of Grizzly Hackle, stripped on one side, trimmed on other
Antennae: Stripped Black Hen Neck Quills

Tying Instructions: To better visualize what I'm describing , it might be helpful to first look at Steve Thornton's article in Fly Tyer, Winter 2000, pg 28-35. This pattern is based on these stonefly imitations.

Its helpful to first prepare the raw material
• Antennae and tails- strip the fibers off both sides of the feathers. The Wapsi® brand Hen Neck quills (perhaps others) have a perfectly colored orangish-red quill for this use.
•Wing case and abdomen- cut latex into1/8 to 1/4 inch strips and color them with Pantone® or Sharpie® marker.
• Legs- cut off 2-3 inches of the butt end of a large Grizzly hackle feather. Strip off one side of fibers and cut the other side off leaving a 1-2 mm of fiber. Then color yellow with marker.

1. Layer shank with thread and tie in tag (8-10 inches) of black flat nylon (Note: This is diversion from the images when I used black nylon to tie the whole fly. I think its easier for tying thorax at end using a light colored 8/0 thread).
2. Tie in the lead wire, but do not wrap around the shank. Instead, tie in a length parallel to the shank closest to you. Tie another length on the far side the same way. This helps build the wide and flat body.
3. Tie in two quills at the bend of the hook so that bend of quill is down and out (Figure 1).

4. Tie in latex strip at the bend and wrap towards head. Try to get 12-14 wraps up to the mid shank. Stretching the latex more give a sleeker profile. Tie off latex at about midshank.
5. Wrap up black nylon tag over the latex. Ideally, there should be even spacing between black and yellow which can be adjusted by twisting or untwisting nylon as you go. Tie off nylon at midshank.
6. Tie in another piece of latex directly on top of shank where the abdomen ends and let free end lay towards tail (Figure 2).
7. Add a two turns of dubbing on top of the latex between the midshank and hook point
8. Tie in a pair of leg immediately in front of the dubbing, angling them backwards, with the curve of the legs down and the 'hairs' pointing back. Trim excess quills.
9. Dub generously over quill tie in point.
10. Bring latex forward and tie in just in from of legs to form the wing case. At this point, you need to judge how large you will make each wing case. You will need to fit three cases and a head (This will take practice).
11. Once tied in, pull the latex backwards and put in a few wrap of dubbing immediately in front. By combining pulling the latex and apply dub wraps you can adjust the size of the wing case previously completed.
12. Add the next two sets of legs and wing cases. After the third wing case, you should have about 2-3 mm left for the head (Figure 3). Tied down the latex just behind the eye and drape forward.

13. Tie in the two antennae on top of latex. These should be thinner and shorter than tails. Use similar angling as with the tails. Clip off excess quills
14. Generously dub from the hook eye to the tie in point of the third wing case.
15. Pull the latex back over the antenna and tie in directly over ties of the third wing case. Carefully finish with 4 half-hitches or so at this location , clip thread and add a drop of glue.
16. Color head and wing cases with black Sharpie® (See bug below for model)
17. Heat bodkin over flame and place where leg joint should be while pulling forward leg. Be careful not to burn off the leg. Start with front legs and move back. You may also use heated bodkin to shape antennae and tails (Figure 4)
18. Clip excess legs, tails and antennae (again, use bug below as model) (Figure 5)